For the salon method, costs and products will vary. Check out websites of local salons or call them for pricing. If possible, talk to a stylist in person. Use the box kit method with caution. Read online reviews to help you choose a box kit that works best on black hair. A popular box kit is L’Oréal Paris Preference Les Blondissimes LB01: Extra Light Ash Blonde. It won’t dye your hair platinum, but may get you down to an ashy blonde in one go. [1] X Research source Use professional-quality products, if possible. Some professional companies require a cosmetology license in order to make a purchase, so keep that in mind. [2] X Research source
Use good-quality shampoos and conditioners to moisturize your hair without adding buildup or stripping your hair of its natural oils. Look for low pH, oils (argan, avocado, olive), glycerin, glyceryl stearate, propylene glycol, sodium lactate, sodium PCA, and alcohols that start with “c” or “s. ”[3] X Research source Avoid strongly fragranced products, alcohols that begin with “prop,” sulfates, and any products that claim to add volume. [4] X Trustworthy Source American Academy of Dermatology Professional organization made of over 20,000 certified dermatologists Go to source
Some bleach kits may come with bleach powder and cream developer, so if you go that route, you may not need to purchase individual products. Check the kit’s packaging for details. Consider buying red gold corrector. Red gold correctors often come in little packages that you add to your bleach mixture to reduce brassiness. This is optional, but recommended.
If you have fine, fragile hair, use a 10-volume developer. For dark, coarse hair, a 30- or 40-volume developer might be necessary. Do not use a 50-volume developer at home.
Use toners to neutralize unwanted colors and remove brassiness. For example, to neutralize hair that’s too golden, choose a toner shade that’s opposite gold on the color wheel, such as a blue or violet ash-based toner. Some toners need to be mixed with developers before being applied, while others come ready to apply.
If the veins on the underside of your wrist look blue or purple, opt for a cool white gray tone. If your veins look green or yellow, go for a warmer, steely gray. [5] X Research source Avoid metal tools as these will react with the bleach.
To do a patch test, create a tiny amount of the bleach mixture and place a dab of it behind your ear. Leave it for 30 minutes, wipe off the excess, and avoid getting the skin wet for 48 hours. If there’s no skin irritation after 48 hours, go ahead with bleaching your hair. To do a strand test, prepare a small amount of the bleach mixture and apply it to a strand of your hair. Check it every 10 to 15 minutes until it reaches the desired color. Note the time it took to reach this color.
Coconut oil is an effective hair moisturizer because it is made up of molecules that are small enough to penetrate the hair shaft. [7] X Research source
Have a small stack of old towels ready in case you need to clean the bleach mixture off your skin or elsewhere.
Unless stated otherwise on the packaging, the ratio of developer to powder should be roughly 1:1 — 1 spoonful of powder per 1 spoonful of developer. [8] X Research source Add a red gold corrector to the mixture, if desired. This is optional, but it can help reduce brassiness and make your hair whiter, which will help you achieve a better gray. Once the powder and developer are combined, add some red gold corrector to the bleach-developer mixture. Read the package instructions for how much you need to add.
It is important to save the roots for last because the warmth of your scalp causes your roots to develop faster than the rest of your hair. Unless your hair is quite short, use clips to section off your hair as you work on it. Be sure to use plastic clips, since metal can react to the bleach mixture.
Avoid massaging the mixture into your scalp to prevent irritation. Use a mirror to help you get a clear view of the back of your head.
Avoid the temptation to apply any heat to your hair at this point, as applying heat could end with your hair falling out completely.
If your hair still looks dark, reapply more bleach to the strand of hair, replace the plastic wrap and allow it to sit for another 10 minutes. Continue checking your hair every 10 minutes until your hair is completely blonde.
Remember that the darker the blonde, the darker the gray will be, so bleach your hair as light as you want your gray shade to be. Note that you won’t need to reapply the bleach to your roots if your roots are whiter than the rest of your hair. Just apply bleach to the parts you want to lighten further. Depending on how dark, coarse, and thick your hair is, it could take up to 5 bleachings to turn it pale yellow. [10] X Research source
The ratio is usually 1 part toner to 2 parts developer.
Use a mirror to have a look at the back of your head to make sure the toner is fully covering your hair.
Depending on the type of toner you use and how on light your hair already is, the toner could work more quickly or slowly than expected.
If you missed a spot, wait a few days and repeat the process on the strand of hair in question.
To do a strand test, follow the manufacturer’s instructions for the specific dye that you buy. For a patch test, rub a small amount of developer on a patch of skin behind your ear and wait 48 hours to see if your skin gets irritated. If it does, don’t use that brand of dye.
You may even want to rub a bit of petroleum jelly or thick moisturizer around your hairline to prevent the dye from staining your skin.
If your hair is thick, you may need to do more sections.
The warmth from your scalp causes the color on your roots to process more quickly, so save your roots for last.
If you come across any spots that feel dry, add more dye.
If you’re happy with the color, wash out the dye. If you’d like it to be richer, leave it on longer. Make sure you don’t go over the recommended processing time.
Ideally, you’ll avoid heat styling your hair altogether.
Most of the time, let your hair air dry. If you must blow-dry your hair, be sure to use the coolest setting. Avoid applying heat or otherwise manipulating your natural hair texture as much as possible, as this can cause your hair to break off — you could end up with chunks of hair sticking out from your head that are only 1–2 inches (2. 5–5. 1 cm) long. [13] X Research source If you simply must straighten your hair, you can achieve a straightening effect with a blow dryer and a round brush — do this as an alternative to using a straightener. If done properly, this technique should eliminate the need to use a straightening iron. [14] X Research source Comb your hair with a wide-tooth comb. [15] X Research source
Pre-wash primers can be purchased at salons, beauty supply shops, drugstores, and online. [16] X Research source
You can also substitute dry shampoo for a wash. When you dry your hair, gently pat and squeeze it with a towel — don’t rub the towel over your hair. [17] X Research source
It’s best to use professional shampoos and conditioners rather than drug store brands. Ask your stylist to recommend products formulated for gray or bleached hair.
Ask your stylist to recommend a professional deep conditioning treatment. A good hair oil will keep your hair looking softer and less frizzy. Some people swear by extra virgin coconut oil to reduce frizz and help condition their hair.
Renew your color when your roots are 1 inch (2. 5 cm) at the longest. If you let your roots grow longer than that, it may be more difficult to touch them up without having them clash with the rest of your hair. If the rest of your color needs a touchup, apply toner to all of your hair, rinse it out, and apply gray dye to your hair. This time, start at the roots and work down since the roots will need more color.
To keep your hair as healthy as possible, use only styling products that will moisturize your hair. Avoid anything that provides lift or volume, as this will dry out your hair. [20] X Research source
