Emulsion paint comes in three different finishes: vinyl matte, vinyl soft sheen, and vinyl silk. Matte emulsion hides imperfections well, but soft sheen emulsion is more durable. Silk emulsion is the most durable and handles high-moisture areas better than the other two, but its glossiness tends to draw attention to imperfections on the surface of the wall. The white basecoat should usually be matte emulsion, but the overcoat can be any of the three varieties.
A 2-inch (5-cm) paintbrush should work adequately well for cutting in the sides of the wall. Lambswool, foam, and mohair rollers can all be used with emulsion paint. As a general rule, you should use a roller with a greater amount of nap (more thickness) for rougher or more uneven surfaces.
If there’s a radiator on your wall, consider turning it off and removing it while applying the emulsion paint. Allow the radiator to cool and drain before removing it. Turn off or block all electrical outlets. Cover the edges of light switch plates and outlet plates with painter’s tape. Apply painter’s tape over the skirting boards, floor, ceiling, door frame, and window frames immediately adjacent to the wall.
You can scrub, rinse, and dry the wall using clean rags. It’s very important to let the wall dry before continuing. Since emulsion is a water-based paint, applying it to water-covered surfaces could prevent it from adhering correctly.
Wrap the sandpaper around a cork block and gradually work over the entire surface of the wall. When finished, use a lily bristle brush to sweep away any dust from the wall.
Check the manufacturer’s recommendations since the best mixing practices can vary by brand and make. Place tights or cheesecloth over the paint bucket, then pour the paint into a separate bucket through that material. Doing so will generally strain most solid pieces from the paint. You should also use a wooden paint stirrer to quickly combine the paint before use.
To prepare a basecoat, combine one part white emulsion with three parts water in a clean, empty bucket. Use a paint stick to thoroughly blend the mixture. Apply the basecoat using the same technique you’ll use for the overcoat emulsion. “Cut in” the seams of the wall using a paintbrush, then apply it to the remaining wall surface using a paint roller. Allow the basecoat to thoroughly dry before proceeding with the overcoat.
Cutting in should be done around all seams of the wall and in any area the roller won’t reach. This includes any area where the wall meets other walls, ceiling, or floor. Additionally, all seams around electrical outlets, light switch plates, doors, and windows should also be cut in. Any area that can be easily accessed with a roller should generally be painted with a roller. Other tools, including large paint brushes and paint pads, can be used instead of a roller, but for the sake of ease and consistency, paint rollers are generally best.
This also means that you should allow the white basecoat to dry before applying a top coat in your final color. The necessary number of coats will vary depending on the color you choose and the original color of the wall. Dark colors are difficult to paint over and may require as many as three coats, especially if your new paint is lighter. For more specific guidelines, check the emulsion manufacturer’s recommendations, which can usually be found on the label.
Since emulsion paint is water-based, it’s usually easier to clean than oil-based paints. Get to the spill before it dries, however. If the spill does dry, you may need to apply an appropriate paint thinner to the area before wiping it clean.
Use a 2-inch (5-cm) wide paintbrush for best results. When dipping the brush into the emulsion, only submerge approximately one-third of the bristle length.
Apply the first straight stroke within 1 inch (2. 5 cm) of the seam. After completely the first stroke, turn the brush so that the long edge is perpendicular to the seam. Work back over the original stroke, carefully pushing the paint into the seam in the process. When finished, roughly 2 inches (5 cm) of wall space should be covered by the emulsion. Corners that meet in three dimensions, like the space between two wall corners and a ceiling, may require a slightly wider cutting in area.
If the emulsion does dry completely, the areas you cut in may remain visibly separate from the rest of the painted surface.
Use a tray specifically designed for use with paint rollers. There should be a sunken well at one end and a ribbed, slanted platform extending up toward the other. Pour the paint directly into the sunken well.
To remove the excess water, pass the roller over clean paper towels or other non-inked absorbent paper material. The water will not dilute the color of the emulsion. Since emulsion is a water-based paint, however, water can help the roller apply the paint in smoother, more even strokes.
You only need to apply a light coat of paint to the roller. If emulsion drips off when you lift it up, there’s too much on it. Roll the roller over the platform again to scrape away some of the excess.
Tackle the square in the top corner first. If one corner is closer to a window than the other, choose that one since the sunlight can make it easier for you to check the application and coverage of the emulsion.
Start at the bottom of one side and work toward the opposite side. After the first “M,” you’ll need to lift the roller and create another “M” over the first. This second “M” should be perpendicular to the first. Repeat these diagonal strokes, reloading the paint as needed and changing the angle periodically, until the entire square has been covered.
Overlap the strokes slightly so that the emulsion blends together evenly. Try to overlap the paint onto the “cut in” areas around the seams of the wall.
